It has a gauge on it too so you can also use it to test vacuum actuators, distributor vacuum pots, etc. Works slick, just put the parts together, loosen the bleeder, hook the rubber hose to it and pump the handheld vacuum pump and after a dozen or so pumps its pulling fluid thru. More recently I bought a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. You can pour excess fluid in bottle back into the master cylinder if it comes out clean. Hopefully, you will have good brakes by then.Ĭheck master cylinder level in between doing each wheel. Once done, do it again to make sure no trapped air. doing it as many times as I have to until no air is expelled. Complete the brake bleed procedure as for. Important to hold brake pedal down until bleeder is closed. Triumph Thunderbird Manual Online: Bleeding The Front Brakes, Renewing Brake Fluid, Motorcycles With Abs. Then I open the valve and let the air out, close bleeder and then tell wife to let up. I have my wife pump the brakes twice and hold (even if at floor at first). Make sure the hose end is always in the fluid. Insert a rubber hose(size the the cylinder bleeder through the cap and extend it down into the fluid. If you have a dedicated car and care about keeping the fluid fresh, this is the best option (IMO) other that buying an expensive pressure flush system.What is your method to bleed ? I use this (wife helps)įirst use a plastic bottle (water bottle) with some fluid already in it. I didn't leave them on the car but put them in my box for future use. I bought a set and they worked like a charm. Bit I recently went thru a TAURUS with ABS and performing any service or flush, the replacement fluid has to be clean and of the correct viscosity. I kept reading about speed bleeders and poo-pooed the idea. There also has to be a one way valve used. You partially fill a container with fluid and hope if fluid is ingested back into the system when the pedal is released, that fluid will be clean. While most should be drawn out by the current of flow due to the vacuum, the resulting air bubbles may make it difficult to determine whether friendly or entering via the threads making it hard to determine if all air has been removed. Thunderbird Year 1966 1 Can anyone confirm if the original equipment style proportioning valve will shut off fluid flow upon bleeding the brakes I recently replaced my master & wheel cylinders, all brake lines & hoses, as well as the brake booster. The one thing that is troublesome with a vacuum bleeder is that when the bleeder screw is loosed, the threads (NPT) will allow air to be drawn past those threads into the cylinder. I understand that if I ensure the hose I connect to the bleeder valve is routed higher than the wheel cylinder before the catch bottle I can do this myself and press the pedal myself? Does it matter where the bottle is as long as the tube travels higher than the master cylinder on its way to the bottle? Also have been fighting leaks with the fittings and line from the M/C and booster. I’m bleeding again because I just installed a rebuilt power booster and M/C. I had already bled all the brakes a number of years ago (but only drove it out and in to the garage (brakes seemed OK then)) after replacing all the wheel cylinders, flex hoses and most of the hard lines. I did not try the left front because I was worried something was wrong.Īlso, the fluid that came out of the right front wheel cylinder was much darker than the two rears. It might have gone down some on the rears but not as much as the right front as she didn’t react to it like she did with the front. It wasn’t until I opened the right front valve that she was surprised how far the pedal went down. I closed the valve before she let off the pedal. I didn’t open the valve until she pressed and held the pedal. 1965 TBird Brake Problems March 17, 2010, 01:31 PM Ok i have a 65 t bird and i purchased knowing the brakes werent working correctly i was told the master cylinder was bad so replaced it and all the brake lines except for the rubber hoses on the front (the ones that go into the calipers) and the back before the t splitter. My wife was pressing the brake pedal for me. This sounded to me to be just like bench bleeding without the vice holding the M/C. I bled the M/C on the firewall by attaching a hard line to the output fitting on the M/C and bent it up and into the M/C reservoir, and pumped the brake pedal. 1.1K 365K views 12 years ago How to Replace Brakes with Parts from For More Info visit us at: 1A Auto shows you the procedure for bleeding drum brakes and. I have a new single reservoir M/C and new wheel cylinders and a recent rebuild of the brake booster. Suck in new Dot 4 using the pump on the caliper bleed nipple.
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